The 7 Best Things to do in Jaffna
When to go?
When visiting Sri Lanka, you may consider juggling the time of year with the monsoon seasons. The northeast monsoon, which affects Jaffna and the north east regions occurs December to February. We went in October/November and it was perfect
Is Jaffna Safe to Visit?
Jaffna feels quite different from other towns in Sri Lanka. It doesn't have the hustle and bustle of Colombo. Nor the hotels, restaurants and tourists of the south. It actually feels quite Indian due to its Tamil history, culture and proximity of 31 kilometres across the Palk Strait to India itself. The people are initially more reserved, which is not surprising given their recent history, but engage one or two in conversation and their humour and friendliness is very welcoming. Jaffna Tamils have a significant diaspora in Switzerland and locals asked us several times if we were Swiss. If you are genuinely interested in travelling to less well known and touristy destinations, you will really enjoy your stay in Jaffna.
How to get to Jaffna
Book online train tickets from the Sri Lankan website and reserve first class tickets. Colombo Fort train station is your starting point. The views from the train are fabulous as you leave the city and travel through the paddy fields with water buffaloes galore. Take snacks and water but try the treats offered by the train vendors. Not all of them were identifiable or delicious, but definitely worth a try. Did you ever expect to see candy floss? There were plenty of friendly tuk tuk drivers at Jaffna station and we found one who was happy to find the wine shop for us after the long journey.
Jaffna History
Historically Jaffna has experienced colonialism firstly from the Portuguese, then the Dutch and lastly the British. The city was a hub for education and trade, particularly in tobacco and fisheries. It has been home to a large Tamil population with Hinduism the main religion. The civil war (1983 - 2009) hit Jaffna infrastructure particularly hard with blockades, air raids and mass displacement of the population. During my last visit to Sri Lanka, Jaffna was off limits due to the unrest, so It has been good to be able to visit, feel welcomed by the locals and see the (renovated) local landmarks.
Jaffna City
1. Jaffna Fort
The best thing to do first is walk around the city and get a feel for the place. Start with the fort down by the water. It was built in 1618 by the Portuguese who erected it as a trading post, not anticipating it to be needed for defense. The Dutch rebuilt it into a pentagon shaped building with a moat which is seen elsewhere in Sri Lanka. Today, the fort is not well signed or maintained and the church was completely destroyed in the war. However, it is lovely to stroll around with interesting views over the city and out to sea.
2. Jaffna Library
The library was purpose built in 1933 and was the biggest library in Asia with almost 100,000 rare books and manuscripts, such as texts on palm leaves, ancient Tamil documents and various historical papers. The whole thing was burnt down during the troubles in the 80's. Today's building was rebuilt in the early 2000's and is a great symbol of Jaffna's recovery.
3. Clock Tower
Walk down from the library and you will come to the Clock tower. Clock towers around Sri Lanka tend to have specific meanings and relate to iconic events. Jaffna's clock tower was originally built in 1875 to commemorate the visit of the Prince of Wales. It was destroyed but has been rebuilt with fabulous statues of Tamil kings around it.
4. Jaffna Market
Wander along Hospital Road, to the town centre and the market. The structure has outdoor and indoor stalls, there is some colourful street art on the walls and it is filled with a myriad of stalls selling everything and more. Fruit and veg, especially chillies, textiles, hardware, coconut scrapers, flags, chicken, dried fish - a specialty, and beautiful purple lotus flowers for Hindu rituals. It's a great way to check out the food and drink and interact with the local traders.
5. Jetwing Hotel
Check out the roof top bar at the Jetwing Hotel. Yes, they sell cold Lion beer in lovely cold glasses, but add to that the views across the town. The new cultural centre stands out dramatically and the whole area looks lush and green.
6. Point Pedro
Catch the number 750 bus with the locals up to Point Pedro, the most northerly town in Sri Lanka. The town itself is nothing special but you can walk to the beach up to some old, stone, customs buildings and a distressed fishing boat. Find a friendly tuk tuk driver who will give you the tour along the coast line to Sakkotei Cape. There is a formal 'Northernmost Point' marker, but keep your eyes open for the fishermens' huts, little fish markets, boat builders shacks and open areas where people hang out and relax. Driving eastwards is the lighthouse and oldest post box of Sri Lanka, another reminder of colonial times. Try the dried fish - a delicacy of the north, but keep it well wrapped as it's very potent.
7. Go West to Kurikadduwan Jetty at Kurichchikadu
It's difficult to pronounce but everyone knows it as the boat departure jetty for Delft Island. Catch another delightful bus - 776 from the Jaffna bus station. This time, the journey goes along low lying wetlands, on single track roads over the waterways and lagoons, and past small villages in varying stages of abandonment. The rural life here is fishing and agriculture and was badly affected when saltwater was washed over the farming lands in the Tsunami in 2004. As a result, many fishermen and farmers, having lost their occupations, moved away. The war created further displacement of the population. So there are abandoned houses and settlements contrasting with the new builds of redevelopment, following the end of the war.
It is possible to take a boat across to Delft Island and the most westerly point. However, most accounts leave a lot to recommend it so we wandered around the terminus area, saw a snake, a few cows and caught the bus back to Jaffna.
Tip - the buses will accept as many passengers as are willing to board. Try to get on early for the return journey and at the first stop otherwise, it's a long way to stand and sniff armpits.
How Long to Stay in Jaffna?
The return journey takes roughly two days, so it makes sense to spend at least 3 days to explore the town and to take a couple of days trips. For anyone who still reads Lonely Planet guides, 'Ranked second on the list of destinations, Lonely Planet describes Jaffna as known for its culture, cuisine and island adventures'. This may be a little over exuberant, but do go before it changes.
See also
