10 Best Things to do in Pondicherry

A visit to the ex french colony, Pondicherry has appealed to me for 20 years. I have been curious to see how the french/indian mix of cultures and history have developed.

A portly Uber driver treated us to a kamikaze drive from Chennai to Pondicherry (Pudicherri) along the diversion - full road, 180 kms southwards to the friendly seaside town.

It has a “White Town” or french quarter, built next to the sea and a very orderly grid - built city area on the other side. It is split into Muslim (south) Christian (middle) and Hindu (north) areas. So, now you’ve arrived, you have a great choice of things to do.

The street is lined with shade giving trees on one side and sea on the other. The beach itself has worn away over the years but it doesn’t stop you from perching on the edge of the cliff for that all important selfie.

See Gandhi's statue and the lighthouse which becomes more illuminating after dusk.

The Old Lighthouse

The Pondicherry tourist agency is doing a great job keeping the streets clean and tidy, street sellers are generally only around at weekends and there are plenty of facilities for everyone, although this one is new to me.

The cafe was the former Port Office during the colonial era, No. 23-40 Beach Road (Goubert Avenue). It's a good place to chill with a lemon soda, next to the sea and watch the palm squirrels race around. Whilst waiting for your order 😉 wander around the inside and look at the lovely old photos.

The walk is around the city and gives you a good feel for the geography, architecture and history of the place. Book in advance and meet at the cafe at 4.30 pm. A knowledgeable and interesting guy will take you for 2 hours/2 km walk for 500 rupees.

As you walk round, take in the colonial architecture and the excellent renovation projects that have taken place. Sadly, most have been undertaken by wealthy individuals or organisations. However there are still buildings that you can access. Hotel Dune de l'Orient 17, Rue Romain Rolland is a great example and there are old photos displayed showing how badly it was ruined.

Sri Aurobindo Ashram is a famous spiritual and wellness centre set up originally in 1926 by Sri Aurobindo and Mirra Alfassa. The ashram has its own perfumeries, paper manufacturing, school and sports complex. The businesses provide both and income for the establishment and provide work for its 1000 members.

Arulmigu Manakula Vinayagar is a large temple dating from before the 17th century. There is a 200 kg Ganesh statue which was apparently thrown into the sea multiple times before the French Commander eventually allowed it to remain in place in the temple for the local Hindus. The locals are happy for you to enter (no shoes) and wander round looking at the ornate golden chariot.

6. Walk around the Water Tower in Bharathi Park

The story goes that the Aayi Mandapam Monument was built on the command of Napoleon III in 19th century. It was to honour the selfless act of Aayi Mandapam from the 16th century. The local king complained, as they do, that her house blocked the view of the temple’s water reservoir. So, she took down her house and replaced it with a water tank for use by the community.

Years later, french engineers discovered that all the city’s water was supplied by her tank and this was why the monument was constructed in her honour. The modern water system is not connected to the ancient monument and lacks some of the finesse as it comprises of a large sewer running the length of the city.

7. Take a boat trip to the Mangroves

Take a tuk tuk out of the city to Ariyankuppam or Will’s Boat House. The boats leave every hour and after watching a security video, you are taken to an ancient settlement, the Arikamedu ruins. These date from the 1st century BC and the site was once an ancient Roman trading port, then a Jesuit mission house, orphanage and weaving centre. Now it’s full of tourists, rubbish, cows, goats and snack stalls.

There is a good old push and shove system for loading people onto and off the boats, so do watch your step. The boat chugs gently the other way down the river to the fishing boat harbour and potentially out to sea.

On your way back, stop just along from the new fish market. There is fresh fish available on all the menus and it's sold along harbour road.

Located in the french quarter, it was built in 1855, by Louis Guerre, the same engineer who built much of the colonial buildings in Pondicherry. Symmetrical towers in pink and white form the front of the church and it is still used today by francophone residents.

9. Roof Top Restaurants

We went to several of these for dinner. The standard of food in the french quarter of Pondicherry is significantly higher than anywhere so far on our Indian travels.

My favourite places were Villa Cavi, Madame Shanthés for the view and Petit Palais behind Notre Dame. Coromandel is not on a rooftop but is a great treat. Walk around the building of this ex-judge's house to understand a little of how life was for the rich in Pondicherry.

If curry 3 times per day becomes a little tedious, walk to Baker Street Bakery, at 123 Bussy Street, (not Beach Road) and indulge in proper coffee, croissants, pain au chocolat and many other delicious offerings. You will not be disappointed.

The atmosphere here is gentle and relaxed. The city obviously profits from significant tourism and with its clean streets and friendly locals, it is a joy to visit and potentially return to.