Northern Cyprus – the undiscovered side of the Island
A less well known part of Cyprus, so I have written a northern Cyprus travel guide to help you see more than the average tourist.
The Cyprus Situation
Cyprus is a divided island, and references to “North” and “South” Cyprus can still be sensitive, depending on who you speak to.
In 1974, a conflict split the island between Greek Cypriots in the south and Turkish Cypriots in the north. Today, the north is known as the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus (TRNC), recognised only by Turkey.
A UN-controlled buffer zone, referred to as the “Green Line”, runs across the island from west to east. There are 9 border crossings, where you can cross between the two sides, but you will need your passport.
Crossing the Border
If you have a hire car from the south, it is possible to buy insurance at some of the checkpoints (e.g. Derinya) which covers you for your trip north. The price currently is €25 for up to one month. You can walk across other checkpoints. The most interesting one is Ledra Street where you get a glimpse of the green line, barbed wire and sand bags.
Best Things to Do in Northern Cyprus TRNC (Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus).
Here is are some of my favourite places in North Cyprus
Nicosia
Most visits to the North start with Nicosia, so to embrace the slower pace of life book an appointment and visit the hammam. A turkish body scrub will leave you refreshed and amazed that you have any tan left. It is a truly memorable experience and the renovated hammam gives you a feel for how life used to be.
Pick up the tourist map with the Blue Line self guided walk from the tourist information office on the right after the border crossing. There are around 25 places of interest and takes 2 1/2 - 3 hours, depending on your attention span. Follow the blue line painted on the road around old Nicosia (some parts are missing, so use the map). You will find Selimiye Mosque, the Grand Bazaar, the municipal market, the Dervish Mansion, Kyrenia Gate and the old Aranahmet Quarter to mention only a few places of interest. You will see heaps more than the average tourist who wanders over the border and sees only the shops selling knock off, tourist tat.
Kyrenia
If you only have time for one coastal town, visit Kyrenia. It is approximately 25 kms from Nicosia. Go either with your hire car, catch a local taxi or find a 'dolmus' for the real turkish experience. The dolmus minivan leaves from the station when it is full and will drop you at Kyrenia for 150 turkish lira (about £2.40). Not the most luxurious way to travel but you meet the locals and get to see everything along the way.
My favourite hotel is the Kyrenia PalaceBoutiqueHotel. Each room is decorated differently and the place is filled with antique furniture and decorations that the owner has collected over the years. It is next door to the mosque - so be warned and bring ear plugs if necessary. Breakfast is in the courtyard where you can spend hours relaxing peacefully in the middle of this busy town. Then you should explore the town. Wander out along the harbour, drink coffee and watch the boats entering and leaving the harbour. The boat trips are pretty good if you have enough time.
Turn right at the end of the harbour and visit Kyrenia Castle, with great views out to sea and marvel at the cannons and cannon balls, scattered liberally around. Not a fan of museums? This one is good. There is a Shipwreck Museum inside that will leave you wondering about historical trade routes and maybe spark your interest in Cypriot history.
Dinner at the Six Brothers Restaurant will not provide the tastiest food but on the top floor you will find the best view out over the harbour. It really is quite spectacular. There have been some great small restaurants tucked down the side streets, so avoid food around the harbour and look for somewhere a little further away.
Bellapais is a short drive from Kyrenia. It has a fabulous gothic abbey with spectacular views towards Turkey. In summer there are shows in the grounds in the evenings.
A walk around Bellapais may lead you up the hill to the former home of Lawrence Durrell. He lived here between 1953 and 1956 and wrote Bitter Lemons. It covers his time as a British advisor in Cyprus during a politically unstable time prior to Independence.
As you walk back down the hill, you will see the Tree of Idleness, which features in Durrell's book. Little has changed here as old men, while away their time underneath, drinking coffee, playing backgammon and putting the world to rights.
Castles on the Five Finger Mountain Range
After all the food and drink consumed in Kyrenia, you will need to do a spot of walking. There are three castles - Kantara, St Hilarion and Buffavento outside Kyrenia situated on the Besparmak or Five Finger Mountain Range. If your enthusiasm or energy doesn't fancy the journey to all three castles, do go to Buffavento. It is higher, quieter, windier (its name means defier of the winds) and you will understand why it was used for passing signals along the coastline. Remember good shoes, water and shades/sunscreen.
(** yours truly cycled to Kantara from southern Cyprus in her more youthful days)
Karpas Peninsula
If you have time to venture further, Cyprus Pan Handle or the Karpas Peninsula feels like travelling back in time. The one road leads up to the Cape Apostolos Andreas with an underwhelming monastery, that is permanently under refurbishment. However, the journey is great. Once past Esentepe, there are lovely local villages and nice beaches.
Along the road you will meet wild donkeys. They have now become quite tame and will barricade your route unless you pay the carrot toll charge.
If you are not in a hurry, there are some lovely, rustic places to stay in the peninsula. Elausa Hotel, next to the monastery is a favourite of mine. If you stay, book evening meal as well as there is nothing close by, except a tiny church opposite that you can walk round in 3 minutes. Villa Lembos is smarter, really popular and gets booked up quickly. You can find small guest houses in Dipkarpas itself. My recommendation is to book accommodation directly, then drive up and down the north coast.
Beaches
There are some spectacular beaches. There are some dreadful beaches too. You will know within seconds which is which. Rubbish can occasionally wash ashore, depending on winds and currents, but there are still plenty of beautiful stretches of sand.
There are a few beaches with beach beds, similar to the tourist places in the south. A top tip though is to check if it is turtle season. This coast hosts green and loggerhead turtles who lay their eggs and return here every year. They are well protected, but you can join the volunteerorganisations who look after the nests and eggs. You may even see them hatch and being released back to the sea.
My favourite spots are Alagadi Beach, Esentepe Beach and Esennali Balik restaurant. These have locally run restaurants with a reasonable menu and a lovely outlook.
Famagusta
Varosha (ghost town)
If you have time, it is interesting to visit Famagusta. It was once Cyprus’s premier beach resort with 150.000 tourist beds. In 1974, war between the Greeks and the Turks forced residents to flee. The whole of the city was left abandoned, with tables set and car showrooms filled with cars. Decades later, parts of this eerie “ghost resort” are being slowly reopened by the Turks much to the horror of the Greeks and the curiosity of the tourists.
Old Town (walled city)
The truly old part of Famagusta is also great to visit. It was a walled city with its own harbour. There is Othello's Castle which allegedly inspired Shakespeare and a museum inside the walls. Wander the narrow streets to discover huge, old churches which are now mosques, discover the Venetian ruins and hidden courtyards and check out the lovely old port warehouses now turned into decent restaurants.
My favourite place for a breather is Petek's Pastanesi, not for the food but the views from the top floor. However, it would be rude not to gaze at the rows and rows and rows of cakes they have for sale in the back room. You will be (Turkish) delighted.
Is Northern Cyprus Safe?
Like the whole of the island, there is little crime, especially violent crime. The northern side of Cyprus feels more relaxed and tranquil than the south and I have not yet heard of pick pockets or handbag snatchers here. The turks generally have a good sense of humour and are good at hustling but if you enjoy a bargain, feel free to haggle.
Outside of Nicosia and Kyrenia, you can feel relaxed about guarding phones and handbags etc. You can often see people entering a shop and leaving their car running outside.
Crossing the border is safe.
Tap water is generally potable in hotels etc.
The sun/heat can do the worst damage especially catching you unaware when there is a cooler wind blowing.
However, the driving is absolutely appalling. Expect the unexpected. No indicators, parking anywhere and everywhere, suddenly stopping to chat to friends . Red lights and zebra crossing are randomly observed and it feels compulsory that everyone is on the phone whilst driving. Fortunately, fast driving is not common, so accidents are bumps rather than crashes. I wouldn't recommend a career as a motorcycle delivery rider though. For most visitors, Northern Cyprus feels no more risky than travelling in southern Europe
Prices
Is the north cheaper than south Cyprus?
Definitely yes. Fuel, local restaurants and supermarkets are noticeably cheaper. The Turkish lira has weakened considerably over the past few years, so the Turks prefer euros as a way of charging higher prices. For this reason, accommodation is not a good value as it should be but you will do better booking directly where possible.
Do not be tempted to bring a lot of goods across the border back to the south, as some of the customs officers can be strict about personal use items and what they believe may be sold on.
Quick Tips
- Get car insurance (from some checkpoints) for €25
- Best time of year April or October
- Keep some Turkish Lira for coffee etc
- Use Dolmus to travel north of Nicosia
- Carrots/apples for donkey tolls
- Turkcell sim card for around £8
- Teshy ker eh derim = thank you in Turkish
And Finally
Northern Cyprus offers something quite different from the south. It is quieter, less developed, and full of contrasts. It may not be polished, but that’s very much part of its appeal.
If you are staying in the south you may enjoy The Real Cyprus
Here is a brief guide to Cyprus if you want to know a bit more